Home on the Athens Riviera. Where We Go to See, Stay, Sip, Eat and Lounge.

This October, Greece was named the Best Country in the World by Condé Nast Traveller, as part of its annual Readers’ Choice Awards. Something that Greeks have long known. And being the best is very important to them.

Whether it’s being the best country, making you the best coffee, driving the best taxi, taking you on the best tour, or founding the best civilisation, the Greeks have a sense of pride I’m yet to encounter elsewhere.

They simply love to be the best. And they will do their utmost, in earnest, to fulfil that. It’s something I’ve observed and learned since I was a child, and something I truly love about these people. As a nation, they are serious to a fault. Because they care.

I have had the great fortune of being part of a half-Greek (half-mad) family, and the even greater fortune of growing up with a second home in the South Athens suburbs – what has now become known as the Athens Riviera.

Over the years, my husband and I have made it a habit to spend spring and autumn there – avoiding the hottest months but enjoying the temperate fall into summer, and the cooling down of the end of season. We spend time in the city, and a lot more by the beach. We’ve paid homage to our closest temples, from the Acropolis to Sounion and Delphi, and visited 15 Greek islands. And although we know the country well, we have barely scratched the surface.

So, to share a little insight on where we love to go, and the places I’d send my friends, I thought I’d start with the place we call home and where I’ve been going since I was born – the famed Athens Riviera, or to us, Voula (along with our next-door neighbours Glyfada and Vouliagmeni).

Krabo

Other than our local village of Voula (where we stroll every day for freddo espresso, koulouri and a walk by the playground), this is probably the one place where we spend most of our time. Krabo is a restaurant and beach club owned by the iconic Margi Hotel, and the same people behind Akti in Vouliagmeni (which is also worth a visit).

I think we might be their most regular customers out of season, and they take incredibly good care of us. They are extremely dog- and family-friendly (like most places in Greece), and we love to come on a quiet midweek day, but on a Sunday afternoon, this is the place to be on the Athens Riviera. The car park would give Monaco a run for its money, the crowd is chic, the tunes are pumping and the vibes are unmatched. Be warned: sitting inside at the restaurant will get rowdy, but on the seashore, you get to soak up the best of both.

It is a public beach, so don’t be precious about your space. Enjoy ample people-watching, delicious rosé, tarama and calamari, or take yourself up to a table for a more extravagant sit-down affair.

Lunch, dinner, beach or all, we miss it when we’re not there.

Lunch on the beach at Krabo. Grilled bread, taramasalata, fried calamari, soft cheese and tomato salad.

View from Krabo towards the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel.

Sunsets from Glyfada to Astir

I would argue that the sunsets on the Athens Riviera might be some of the best you’ll witness anywhere. They are pure magic, and there are plenty of places to catch that orange glow.

There is a promenade that runs the length of Kavouri, from the beach at the Divani Hotel all the way to the end of the bay, with restaurants and cafés dotted along, and it’s one of the best places to see the sun sink into the sea. It makes for a beautiful evening stroll and a ‘stop and take it all in’ moment as you look back towards the city.

At the top end is Papaioannou Restaurant Vouliagmeni, with a jetty stretching into the sea. Sitting on that pier is the most incredible setting you can experience. Fish-based, high-end, overpriced, and unmissable at least once. Call to make sure they will seat you on the deck – it’s in high demand.

Next door, Panorama gives you the same view and a close experience for a fraction of the cost. Taverna fare that can be mixed, but the backdrop more than does its job.

Further along is a café-restaurant-bar called Lasithi, where locals will linger over a coffee for hours and which we affectionately term “the sunset bar”. It doesn’t have the glitz and shine of other places in the area, but it’s a great place for a sundowner, a casual meal or an ice cream sundae.

Head deeper into Vouliagmeni to Astir Beach, and this one is unrivalled. Perfect sand, perfect sea, PERFECT sunset. There used to be a great restaurant here at the entrance side where you could dine with your toes on the shore, but unfortunately it has closed and is yet to be replaced. Service and food in general at this beach are a bit of a miss, but the location is all-forgiving. Bring your friends (sadly not your dog) and stay until the sun goes down. Then head over to Barbounaki (Papaioannou’s little sister) for dinner.

Heading back out to Glyfada, it’s time to put your glad rags on for Bungalow 7. This is the epitome of Athens Riviera glamour, with a huge design-led indoor space and an outdoor terrace set right on the beach. Excellent sushi and other bites, as well as speciality grilled meats and fish, great ambience, and you guessed it, a dreamy sundown.

FS vs O&O

The Four Seasons and One&Only are two of the big names that have really put this part of the world back on the map – part of the Athens Riviera 2.0. They are both stunning, extensive properties, and I see a lot of people trying to compare the two, but I think it’s hard to do.

Private villa pool at One & Only Aesthesis

One&Only Aesthesis has done a great job of making this unremarkable stretch of coast in Glyfada something to write home about. The entrance is unassuming and elegant, you are met by a flurry of staff who greet you by name, and privacy and discretion are what they are aiming for. The main building houses a gorgeous poolside restaurant, Ora by Ettore Botrini, where the food is divine. There are other more elevated options on-site too, but I haven’t visited them. Seaside drinks at the bar by the beach are gorgeous, but their actual beach club, Manko, didn’t do it for me – perhaps I need to try again on a different (less loud) occasion. The rooms are set in individual bungalows that are highly aesthetic, but the resort is vast and location is everything – many of the private pools face north, which means they are fully shaded. Great in July, not so great in October. All in all, the service, design, food and drinks are very good, and they will do everything they can to make you happy. It was the best in-room dining we’ve ever had. The space is polished, sophisticated and understated, and an entirely different experience to its luxury counterpart in Vouliagmeni.

The Pool at Arion at Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace

The Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel, on the other hand – wow, what a place. For me, the location, setting and context surpass One&Only in every way. This private peninsula has operated as a resort since 1960 and has long been a mainstay of the Athens Riviera, and reopened as a Four Seasons in 2019. As such, the rooms remain in the pre-existing hotel buildings – though extensively renovated to FS standards. Space and privacy are not what you get here, but it has opulence and comfort in spades. It feels like a collection of mini resorts, with a different experience everywhere you go. We love everything bar Taverna 37 and Kyma Pool & Beach Bar – they are fine, but nothing to rave about in the food department. I adore the bar and terrace at Avra, Mercato is lovely for a family meal, and Helios does a great lunch. Beefbar is always fun, with excellent food and a fabulous atmosphere, Pelagos was a delightful surprise, and Matsuhisa under the stars is something special. The staff are warm and friendly, and it’s a wonderful treat every time.

The C Beach & Barbarossa

On the very edge of Voula, towards Glyfada, is a Blue Flag beach called Athines by the Sea. It’s a gated beach that is partially public with a small entrance fee, and there are also beach clubs like Dot and Bloom where you can book beds and get full service. This one is not officially dog-friendly (though you still see dogs), but at the far end are two beach clubs with their own entrances where dogs are warmly welcomed and we visit often.

Clear, calm water at Barbarossa and The C Beach

The C Beach has a beautiful restaurant, a really nice aesthetic and comfortable lounging. The food and drinks are great and we love to go there for a change of scene. Barbarossa, of Paros fame, is right next door and part of the 91 Athens Riviera Domes Resort. This one has great space and is very chill if you’re in the mood for a nice, relaxing day. The restaurant is also gorgeous, the food is delicious, and there is a beautiful swimming pool and good changing facilities.

The sea at both is flat calm, clear and very shallow, perfect for kids to play, but expect a good walk out if you want a proper swim. Lovely views, and a nice sundown.

Shopping in Glyfada

Glyfada is the trendiest and most vibrant town in the area, and a great place to shop, hang out and see some local life. It has plenty of recognisable names from Marks & Spencer to Gap, Zara and H&M, beauty brands like Sephora, Bobbi Brown, Jo Malone and Le Labo, as well as high-end designers like Zadig & Voltaire and Max Mara. There are some great upmarket boutiques and loads of fun finds – jewellery, sunglasses, shoes, the works. It is pleasant to roam, there’s a nice crowd, and you’ll discover lots of things you wouldn’t get at home – which is rare nowadays. Some of our favourites are White Boutiques (also in Voula), Dash and Camorra, and Carpo for some handmade chocolates to take home. Grab a drink at VIBO or Soleto, and eat at Anapsiktirio for delicious modern Greek dishes.

Word of warning: opening hours can differ from what we’re used to, so check before you visit, as some of the smaller shops may close on certain afternoons. Generally, late-night shopping is on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays – perfect for when the weather is hot.

Let’s Eat – The Rest of the Best

Of course the best thing about Greece is often the food, so here’s a quick round-up of some of our favourite spots to eat that I haven’t mentioned yet.

Bluefish

This might be the most romantic setting on the Athens Riviera. Tables set on a deck hanging over brightly lit water and gentle waves splashing up beside you. The sound, the smell and the feeling of being that close to the sea. The food is exceptional. You can choose a whole fish, sectioned and prepared in a myriad of different ways, or order à la carte. Everything is good, and it is always consistent.

Labros

An old-school, elegant Greek seaside fish restaurant. Book a table on the terrace closest to the sea for a garden setting with glorious views. Expect all the classics and the freshest fish by the kilo.

Oven / Sofi’s

A bakery at heart, Oven has locations in Voula and Glyfada, and its sister outlet Sofi’s in Vouliagmeni. The Voula location doesn’t have the greatest seating set-up, Glyfada and Sofi’s are nicer spaces. But the food is great – baked goods, cakes, sandwiches, quiche, pizzettes, brunch options, and takeaway meals that somebody’s grandmother has made.